Warning signs worth a call
Rusty water from the hot side only
Points to corrosion inside the tank or at its fittings.
Popping or rumbling while it heats
Sediment from hard water has collected at the bottom and the burner is heating through it.
Water in the drain pan or on the floor
Could be the relief valve, a fitting or the tank. The tank itself can't be repaired.
Hot water runs out faster than it used to
Sediment takes up room, or a part such as the dip tube or heating element has failed.
The pilot keeps going out
Often a thermocouple or a draft problem, and usually fixable.
Tank or tankless?
| Tank | Tankless | |
|---|---|---|
| Upfront cost | Lower | Higher, especially if the gas line or venting has to change |
| Hot water supply | Limited by tank size | Continuous, limited by flow rate |
| Space | Takes floor space in the garage | Mounts on a wall |
| Hard water care | Flush sediment from the tank | Descale the heat exchanger on a schedule |
| Best fit | Straight swap, tight budget | Larger households, long showers, more room in the garage |
Hard water and your water heater
Las Vegas water carries a lot of dissolved minerals. When it's heated they settle out, building a layer of sediment in a tank or scale inside a tankless unit. That layer makes the heater work harder and shortens its life.
Flushing a tank and descaling a tankless unit are routine maintenance jobs. An anode rod check on a tank is worth doing at the same time, because that rod is what keeps the tank from rusting from the inside.
What a proper install includes
A water heater replacement is more than swapping the tank. A correct install includes the relief valve and its discharge line, seismic straps, an expansion tank where the system needs one, proper venting for gas units, and a drain pan where a leak could cause damage.
If the old heater was installed without some of those parts, we'll point that out and price it separately so you can decide.
Request a quote
Tell us what's going on and a plumber will call you back.
Replacing a water heater, step by step
- Check the old unit, the venting, the gas or electrical supply, and the space it sits in.
- Agree on size and type, tank or tankless, and get a written price.
- Remove and haul away the old heater.
- Install, fill, purge air, light or power up, and test the relief valve and connections.
- Walk you through the shutoff and the maintenance it needs.
Common questions
How long do water heaters last here?
It varies with water quality, use and maintenance. Hard water shortens the life of both tank and tankless units, which is why regular flushing or descaling matters.
My tank is leaking from the bottom. Can it be fixed?
If the tank itself is leaking, no. It needs to be replaced. Shut off the cold supply and the gas or power until a plumber arrives.
Should I switch to tankless?
It can make sense for larger households or where garage space matters. The upfront cost is higher, and sometimes the gas line or venting needs work. We'll price both options.
Do I need an expansion tank?
If your home has a pressure regulator or a check valve on the main, the water heater usually needs an expansion tank to absorb the pressure when water heats.